How Black female models redefined beauty standards

R’yonna Miles Professor Jaleesa Harris ENGL 2017 23 April 2026 How Black female models redefined beauty standards In this essay the Black female models I chose to discuss are Beverly Johnson, Naomi Campbell, Iman, and Tyra Banks. I want to discuss their struggles, barriers, achievements, and impacts they all went through. The first model I would like to address would be Beverly Johnson; she was the first black woman in 1970 to appear on the cover of numerous fashion magazines that included American Vogue and French Elle. Throughout her modeling career, Beverly appeared on different magazine covers. She was a runway model for Calvin Klein. Johnson struggled with different cosmetic companies turning her down and basically were describing their brands white and blonde. With there being no Black hair/makeup artists on set she had to use DIY methods, for example she would use Vaseline to slick her hair down. That didn’t stop here though Johnson still went on and shot hundreds and more magazine covers without receiving the right proper pay as the other models. Johnson states in one article “I was reprimanded for requesting black photographers. Makeup artists, and hairstylists for photoshoots.” Which made it hard for her to even look as good or feel as pretty as the other models. Despite her success, Johnson recounted facing ongoing discrimination and tokenism within the fashion industry, navigating environments where opportunities for Black models remained limited. In 2024, Johnson partnered with the model alliance to push the Fashion Workers Act that would address the systemic discrimination against black supermodels. She discussed real issues such as the lack of pay, limited job opportunities, and most importantly the unequal treatment from agencies and clients. The next model I would like to discuss would be Naomi Campbell. She is a British model who began her career at the age of 8. Campbell is one of six models of her generation who declared supermodels by the fashion industry. She experienced colorism, where her darker skin tone was often marginalized compared to the lighter-skinned models. There was a lack of diversity in fashion shows and how all the campaigns only featured or favored the white models. Early in her modeling career she exposed how she would show up for a modeling gig and how they didn’t know she was black and didn’t have the proper foundation color for her skin. Campbell explained how some would have to mix colors, and it would make her look grey. She expressed in one article that there were more issues other than makeup going on with her. The fashion industry wanted to make her a gimmick they wanted to dress her in certain attire that she wouldn't agree to and just for not agreeing to do it Naomi was labeled as “difficult”. All because she had a voice. Why should she have to accept that when her white counterparts look beautiful and gorgeous in the magazines? Naomi wanted everything to be equal when reality she is right; all models should’ve been treated equally. The industry has been slow to embrace diversity. If everyone has the qualifications, why should there be a problem between black and white models all getting the same treatments. She advocated and was very vocal about racial discrimination. Each black model faced limited resources that were available for dark-skinned models backstage and calling out the industry for not being prepared enough. She didn’t just walk the runway she paved her own footsteps. Naomi Campbell broke the barriers in the fashion industry. The third model I would like to discuss is Iman. She is a Somali American model and actress. Just like Beverly Johnson and Naomi Campbell, Iman struggled with makeup artists who didn’t have appropriate makeup for her. When Iman first came into the modeling world, the first thing she noticed was there was a discrepancy in pay between the white and black models. At that time, she couldn’t understand it. Iman would turn down several modeling gigs because they offered her a lower pay rate than her white counterparts. Iman mentioned how the fashion industry would try to pity black models against one another. One magazine covered referred to her as “A white woman dipped in chocolate.” At the height of her career, she still didn’t receive equal treatment. Iman started her own cosmetic line which was the first beauty brand designed for dark skin women. She decided to launch it when a makeup artist asked her if she brought her own foundation because they didn’t provide none of the shades for black models. Iman is the embodiment of a successful woman who has overcome the racism and colorism she was faced with. The last model I would like to discuss is Tyra Banks. She is an American model, tv personality, producer, writer, and actress. Tyra first began her career as a model at the age of 15. She is the very first African American woman featured on the cover of GQ. She also was Victoria’s Secret Angel. Just like the other models Tyra did face challenges by being accepted as a model due to her being African American. She just didn’t have to deal with not having makeup artists, not wanting to do her makeup or hair because they didn’t have the proper things. Tyra wanted to prove two things that lingerie industry had long denied that black women could sell lingerie to mass audiences. Tyra was rejected from the modeling industry because of her brown skin and curvy figure. Some designers at that time didn’t want to work with curvy models. In 2005 Tyra announced that she was leaving modeling because she was afraid that eventually the modeling world would kick her out at a certain age. All four of these models were keys on breaking the barriers, redefining the beauty standards, and making sure the opportunities were expanded for models of color. Works Cited Steph Eckardt, Beverly Johnson Recalls Racism on Set: “They drained The Pool” Published on July 20, 2020 Emily Kirkpatrick, Naomi Campbell on being labeled ‘Difficult’: ‘It’s hard to be an outspoken Black Woman’ Published on September 20, 2023 Warsen , Somalia’s top model long battle against racism in the fashion industry. Published November 19, 2022 Priya Elan, My rate was different to white girls – it was an unspoken rule 'Published April 29, 2021 Crystal Tate, Tyra Banks was once rejected from the modeling industry for her curvy figure published October 23, 2020

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